Sunday, March 17, 2013

A Change of Habit

I'l be the first to admit it:  I have a thing for the 6th arrondissment, specifically Saint-Germain-des-Pres.  I have become quite comfortable making the district "home". Yes, it is busy and sometimes loud.  Yes, areas have become a little touristy after being featured in a number of films.  But it is also an artistic hub with museums and dozens, if not hundreds, of art galleries. Even better - in my humble opinion - is having the Jardin du Luxembourg in such close proximity. I can stroll the gardens for hours and can appreciate the architecture of the Luxembourg Palace. 

The apartment I fell in love with along rue Mazarine was close to 3 metro stations, good shops and cafes, 3 movie theaters, including one which features films in English.  One of my favorite days in Paris was spent watching "Midnight in Paris" in this theater, which was shown during the opening credits of the film.  Almost more important than architecture, film, or transportation -- the apartment was only a stones throw from Amorino Gelato shop where they shape your gelato on the cone to look just like a beautiful, tasty flower.

But, let's face it...it is PARIS.  I think we can assume they have gelato, cozy cafes, and metro stations in the other 19 arrondissments as well.

So, this year, I will be exploring two new districts: the 7th (Eiffel Tower and Champ de Mars), which is on the Left Bank and the 3rd arrondissment, on the Right Bank, where I will explore Le Marais.  Two very different districts.  But both quintessentially Paris.

I will look forward to taking everyone on a tour through both of these great areas as I learn more about my favorite city, Paris.

Sunday, August 19, 2012

Experiencing the best of Paris


By far one of the best experiences I had in Paris was joining the Think Globally…Eat Locally Meet-up group.  Run by organizer, Shelley, the group’s mantra is, “Travelling the world together, plate by plate”. 

Shelley founded the group in 2008 and hosts 2 – 3 events each month.  "Think Globally...Eat Locally" is for anyone interested in sampling some of the international food available in Paris and meeting interesting people at the same time. The night my daughter, Susan, and I were there we were joined by an international mix of men and women who were in Paris for a variety of reasons and timeframes. Most had lived in Paris for 15 months or longer and hailed from Germany, Denmark, Canada, and the US.  Most spoke French fluently, of course, and were able to share insights and information that proved helpful to me during my stay. It was a great night with great fellowship and wonderful food. 
The meet-up Susan and I attended was one of her Glass Jar Dinners.  A typical invite to the dinner:

Do you have an empty glass jar? Please bring it to dinner, as it's going to be your wine glass :) [I also have a few jars on hand if you can't find one!] This is a 3-course, sit-down dinner with a 100% vegetarian option available.”
For these Glass Jar dinners, Shelley and her husband, Andre, host in their Paris home.  Food ranges from Moroccan Chicken, lasagna, Thai or Indian, to crepes, pastries, and champagne.  But the highlight of each dinner?  Shelley’s Homemade Cheese Crackers. They are a serious cross between cracker and cookie, with a definite lean toward savory. Most of the cheese crackers I have felt obliged to try in the past have been some sort of dry, strong, American sharp cheddar sort of thing. These were moist, did not scream "cheese", and were, literally, melt-in-your-mouth wonderful. Did I mention they were served warm with tequila red pepper jelly? Also made from scratch, of course.

There are a million wonderful food experiences to be had in Paris, but Shelly’s Meet-ups are truly memorable.
Shelley is also a food instructor who has a wonderful website, One Roast Vegetable, geared toward learning the basics at your own pace. If you are interested, take a look at www.oneroastvegetable.com.

Friday, August 10, 2012

SALMON en CROUTE

This wonderful recipe is one of my favorites and never ceases to please
.

SALMON en CROUTE                                                         

Ingredients

·  1 salmon filet (about 1 1/2 pounds/750 g)
·  1 pound/500 g asparagus, trimmed
·  Salt
·  1/4 cup/60 ml creme fraiche
·  3 to 4 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
·  Zest of 1 lemon
·  Freshly ground pepper
·  1 pound/450 g puff pastry (2 sheets)
1 egg, lightly beaten
Directions
Skin and bone the salmon and set aside. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F/230 degrees C.
 
Cut the tips off the asparagus. Reserve the stems and poach the tips in boiling salted water until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain well, refresh in ice cold water, then drain again, leaving to sit so that all the water comes off. Puree the asparagus and stir in the creme fraiche, dill and lemon zest to blend. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Lay 1 sheet of puff pastry on a damp baking sheet with the long edge facing you. Lay the salmon on the pastry, like a picture in its frame. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lay the raw stems of asparagus on top of the salmon, like pencils. Spread the asparagus puree over top.
 
Brush the margins of the pastry with the egg wash. Lay the second sheet of pastry over the salmon and press the edges to seal, like a giant ravioli. Trim the edges, leaving a 1-inch/2.5 cm border. Press with the tines of a fork, then, with the dull edge of a knife, scallop the edges. Make 2 or 3 slits in the top to allow steam to escape. Brush all over with the egg wash and bake until puffed up and golden brown, about 20 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let cool for 5 minutes before slicing. This dish is also good at room temperature.


Sunday, June 17, 2012

Counting the days.

Friday was the day I was supposed to return to France, but it looks like the trip will be delayed. I have had the ticket since December, but starting a new business has a way of changing plans. Since returning from France 11 months ago, I have remained intrigued and enchanted by Paris - and France in general. I read a new book every few weeks, typically non-fiction about the journey of an American to France. In most cases, the journey turns into permanent residence. And I still listen to my playlist of French songs as I go to sleep at night. So, I won't be returning to France this month...or probably this summer. But I have decided to create my own French journey - through cooking, eating, language lessons, literature, as I await the day I actually make the return trip. I will share recipes, stories, and progress in improving my French for those who want to join me on my "journey". To my French friends hanging out on the sidewalk at Shakespeare sharing political opinions and stories and to Shelley and Andre and the rest of my French dining out group, vous voir bientôt.

Friday, July 8, 2011

Back to reality

After a month away, I am back home. No thanks, however, to American Airlines.

Our hotel on the last night of the trip was The Sheraton at Charles de Galle airport in Paris. I chose this hotel after reading that it had easy access to Terminal 2 from which we would be departing the following morning. "Easy access" turned out to mean it was actually located WITHIN terminal two. Talk about convenient! I am not sure if I mentioned it previously, but the train from Provence back to Paris returned to a train station in the city center. We did, of course, have the option to take a train that came into the station located directly below the airport. But NOOOOO...that would be too easy. Since we were told by the cooking school not to make departure plans prior to 4pm, we had to take a train from Avignon to Gare de Lyon in the heart of Paris. Our arrival time was 6:15pm...rush hour. We dragged our bags once more, plopping down in the taxi line, with 4 people ahead of us. No taxi in sight. After about 10 minutes, one taxi arrived. The next arrived after another 10 minutes, then another 10 minutes, etc. Finally, it was our turn. When the driver saw two people and 3 bags, he waved us away with a gruff, "Non!" I tried my best to argue our case, saying the bags and the two passengers had been able to fit into a much smaller vehicle in Provence just a few hours before. He was not buying it and pointed to another taxi - a van - pulling up to the line. At that moment, a woman still 2 - 3 people behind us, decided to try and take the van ahead of her turn. My French may not be perfect, but rest assured, yours truly won that argument. One hour and $75 later, we arrived at The Sheraton. Needless to say, we were simultaneously thrilled to find it was so close to the terminal and horrified to find it so close to the train station we could have traveled directly to, avoiding the long drive and expense.

The Sheraton was very nice and geared toward catering to business travelers. There was a huge bank of computers with 27 inch monitors, a tower that was a charging station for every imaginable electronic device, a massive monitor constantly updating flight information on every possible airline, and 3 restaurants, including a Michelin-starred option. The entrances for all of the restaurants was in one area, manned by a small, French maitre 'd. When we approached him to be seated, he took one look at the travel-weary mother-daughter duo and said, "We have a bar serving snacks just across the lobby".

We were up early for our flight and, after one last, frantic search through terminals 2B and 2C, I was able to locate and purchase more macaroons. Our flight from Paris to Chicago was uneventful. Long...but uneventful. I watched a few movies and read a few magazines and we were there. As we taxied up to the gate, the flight attendant announced that all passengers traveling on to Los Angeles should check with her. The bad news -- Susan's flight had been cancelled and she was rescheduled to another flight, giving her a 3 hour delay. I knew i had a 3 hour wait before my flight to Raleigh was departing, so we went to the Admiral's Club, charged our phones and answered some email. When I went to my gate for my 5:15pm flight to RDU, I noticed the Dallas flight was still at the gate. Turns out, my flight was postponed and would not be departing until 6:15pm. Up to this point, I was not entirely surprised or disappointed. But then, we boarded the plane and the fun began...

Now, I have read about these flights that become "hostage" situations, with passengers trapped on the plane without food, water, or bathroom facilities for several hours. But didn't they come up with some regulation forbidding that kind of thing this past winter? First, we waited at the gate for 45 minutes. Then, we taxied out and got in line...in this case, "line" is defined as 100 other planes ahead of us (storms to the SE, runway issues, etc.) As luck would have it, getting the smart, cute man in the seat next to me on the flight going to Paris meant I would have the abrasive, aggressive, female CEO next to me going home. An hour and a half after getting in line, the pilot came over the speakers and said, "I am not sure how to tell you all this, but...". Typically, this is not the kind of thing I want to hear from my pilot while on a plane. However, since we were on the ground and not in the air, I was slightly less disturbed. Until the pilot announced we were getting out of line and returning to the gate...our long wait in line now meant he was over his allowable number of hours flying before requiring a rest period. I'm not kidding. As a totally paranoid flyer, I was not arguing this rule. But I was tired and hungry and ready to be in my own bed. Back at the gate, the pilot announced - as he exited the plane - they were going to try to find a replacement. After more than an hour and several announcements that we might be stuck in Chicago til morning (it was now nearly 10pm), the still perky flight attendant said a pilot had "been found". At this point she happened to be standing next to me, explaining to the seething woman in the seat beside me why we couldn't have anything to drink. So, I lightly tapped her arm and said, "I really hate to sound like one of those people who has to be medicated to fly...but, I do have to be medicated to fly. So, I am wondering what you mean when you say you 'found' a pilot? Was he at home, on the street, in the bar...on Craig's List?". (Those of you who have had the misfortune to fly with me can picture this moment.)

The problems continued with the American Airlines computer system going down, preventing take-offs for another hour or so. The woman next to me spent a a few hours of this ordeal trying to control the pilots, the flight attendants, and the air traffic controllers, including detailed instructions on how they could have avoided this problem if they had just planned better. I am not sure whether it was the Ativan or that you learn which verbal battles you won't win while living in a foreign country for a month, but I was very calm and quiet through all of this. Six hours after we got on the plane, we finally received clearance and took off. As the wheels lifted off the tarmac, the majority of the passengers broke into applause. "Mary Sunshine" next to me asked why I was not clapping. I explained that a celebration seemed premature at that point and that i would clap when we landed safely in Raleigh. (privately i feared the early celebrating might send the plane plummeting to the ground...perhaps the Ativan was wearing off after the long wait.). We got home after 2am and I was very happy to see my puppy and my bed.



What I learned during my month in France:
1. The majority of people in France are very friendly and are very patient with tourists trying to speak French.
2. I like Italian wine much better than French wine.
3. There is not much better than a perfectly cooked dish, especially when you have prepared it yourself.
4. I still love to learn and could cook all day, every day, without getting bored.
5. I needed to learn to slow down and enjoy moments rather than always working in overdrive.
6. Le Cordon Bleu knows how to make cooking fun, while working your rear off simultaneously. Their school is well-run and very professional.
7. There are great people and wonderful friends to be made from all cultures and backgrounds.
8. What we eat and how we live really does make a difference. Somehow, with all of the food, wine, and sauces, I lost 5 pounds while I was away. Since I had a similar experience while attending cooking school in Italy, I believe I can say with some certainty that ridding the diet of processed foods, eating fresh produce and protein, and being in an environment where a car is not an option leads to a healthier lifestyle and body. While I was in France, I did not consume a Lean Cuisine, any Crystal light or diet drinks, and there were no televisions to watch. I took the steps to my 4th (6th??) floor apartment and walked to and from meals. Very different from what most of us do each day in the US. My son, who lives in Peru, has been telling me this for years and now I am a believer, too.

I have enjoyed writing this blog and hope it has given each of you a picture into my journey.

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Large mountains and big hips




Provence is full of many wonderful villages and markets as well as magical landscapes. Before departing Provence on Thursday, we visited Les Baux-de-Provence, a village that was once a fortress, with one of the most amazing views I have seen so far. A brilliant view of Arles, the Camargue and the Alpilles can be seen from the look-out points. This immense stone fortress is without doubt a "must-see". Unfortunately, as great as the camera is on my iPad, it was difficult to capture the view. So I focused on shots of the village.



While much of the southern part of the Alpilles is exposed rock, the northern slopes, where the road zig-zags down to (or up from) St. Rémy, is thickly forested. The road up to Les Baux from the southeast passes through olive groves and vineyards, and passes the Cave Vignoble Sainte Berthe where you can stop and taste the local wines. The rock formations are incredible. Just inside the entrance to the village are narrow cobblestone streets, terrace cafés, and souvenir shops. The only downside - a lot of tourists. It was the first time during our visit to Provence when I really felt like I was in a tourist area. Even so, given the beauty of the mountain and fortress, it was definitely worth the visit.







We also made one last market stop, visiting the Thursday morning market in St. Rémy. It was a good chance to pick up some last minute souvenirs. When I planned the visit to Provence, I knew that I wanted to bring home some artwork -- nothing elaborate or expensive – just a small watercolor or oil painting of the landscape. I was fortunate enough to meet Franck, a local painter, who had some great pieces. So I was able to get two small watercolors highlighting the Luberon and Alpilles. Very exciting. Susan purchased a beautiful tablecloth from a woman selling linens. As we were leaving the market, I stopped at a vendor with great cotton garments as well as some beautiful crepe de chine. One dress caught my eye immediately and I told Susan, “I have to have it”. There were 3 sizes available. Now, I am not always the Queen of Diplomacy, but I do know good marketing. This lady clearly needed some brushing up on her people skills and sales techniques. I chose the size I thought most appropriate. As I was holding it against myself, thinking of the places I would wear it and the perfect shoes to wear with it, the woman approached me loudly exclaiming, “NON”. She grabbed me, placed her hands on my hips, shook me a little as if taking a mental measurement, and handed me the larger size!! It goes without saying -- I left without buying the dress. Those of you who are female understand perfectly.






As any self-respecting female knows, when you strike out on shopping, you eat. Susan and I spent the remainder of the afternoon sipping Kir Royale on the terrace of the hotel and enjoying our lunch of vegetable salad and dessert of fresh fruit with one last scoop of the delicious cacao sorbet. As we headed for the train station, the mistral was out in full force. This made lugging baggage to an elevated train platform a bit tedious (and my hair was quite the sight), but it was a welcome relief to the hot day and prepared us for the cooler temperatures in Paris.

So, I left Provence sans the silk dress, but full of good food, good memories with Susan, and some great pictures of a region I have wanted to visit for many years.


Wednesday, June 29, 2011

The old grey goose is dead...










I stand corrected. Mint and licorice are not the ingredients I dislike the most. Foie gras and duck are - hands down - the two dishes I never, ever want to see or taste again. And, trust me, I have seen them a lot the past several days. I am sure our hosts think they are being generous and providing us with an outstanding cooking and dining opportunity. But I was (literally) getting a little sick.


















They did inquire about food "issues" when we arrived and i confessed we were not meat eaters. They nodded their understanding, saying that was important since we would be eating what we cooked. That night, we were served duck for dinner. We both took one, tiny bite - followed by discreet little heaves - and left the rest. Fortunately, there were potatoes and dessert. The next day, we arrived at class to find the starter we were preparing was foie gras (the liver of a goose, fattened specifically for the purpose of consuming the liver) that was cigar-rolled in - what else - duck breast. Okay. I do think I should win an award of some type for the most creative cutting of duck breast to hide the fact that it has not been eaten..at all. The following day, duck and foie gras were served again. I feel horrible about it. I know they consider this a delicacy and an extravagant meal and we are really not weird Americans with neurotic eating habits or an uneducated palate. But it was time to be more direct. If for no other reason, to avoid wasting food. (that, and we had run out of creative cutting techniques and our fellow hotel guests from the Netherlands had stopped bringing their dog to dinner with them. Mademoiselle Fifi, as Susan and I refer to her, seems to eat everything dropped on the dining patio.). As it turns out, the chef had finally caught on himself and fish and vegetables became the focus during cooking classes and dining options. Just to be clear, duck is seen frequently at Le Cordon Bleu...and you do take what you cook home with you after class. But you can give it away to a meat-eating classmate and stop at the local cafe for a dinner of your choosing. Here, what you cook is what you eat -- or you don't eat.









The lesson learned: the French clearly put a different emphasis on animals than Americans...or maybe it is just Susan and me? While I definitely would agree that extravagant birthday parties for pets are a little over the top and privately laugh when I see dogs in elaborate sweaters and outfits, I have a real attachment to my dog. One of the reasons I became a vegetarian at age 28 was a concern for animals. Over the past several years, I have added chicken to my diet, but fruits and veggies are my preference. The French, on the other hand, seem to consider most animals a potential meal and each sighting of a bird, horse, or other furry friend prompts a story of how that animal is best cooked. It can be a wee bit disturbing. As Susan put it, "the whole fatten up the goose, just to kill it and eat it, is a little Hansel & Gretel-ish for me".


















Duck/goose issues aside, I have cooked and eaten some great food this week. One standout, papeton d'aubergine, a dish made with roasted eggplant, olive oil, garlic, and cream and served with a tomato and pistou sauce. Wonderful! My favorite culinary experience in Provence: learning to make macaroons. Ours were not quite as pretty to look at as those at Laduree, but they tasted almost as good. Best dining experience was outdoord at a small, family-owned restaurant in a setting at the base of one of the Alpilles mountains, surrounded by olive trees and lavender. I had a delicious fresh fish, daurade, cooked with herb d'provence, fresh veggies, perfectly turned, and a dessert of dense chocolate, presented with berries and cream.



















We are on the TGV headed back to Paris after an enjoyable stay in Provence. The cooking classes were not quite as organized or intense as I had expected. But I came away with more experience. The staff at Domaine De Valmouriane is the best and were our favorite part of this part of the trip. They treat guests the way any business owner hopes his or her staff will treat customers. They make you feel you are their only guest and seem to take a personal interest in assuring you are enjoying yourself. If you ever find yourself headed to St. Remy, it is worth your time to stay there.